Custard wrote:"Been hard at work with the wood, the welding is scheduled for between Christmas and New Year. "
You can't weld wood - just sayin
Seriously though it has come up well. I guess varnish has come on a long way since I had mine. Mine flaked off, but while it was my only vehicle for a few years and was always on the road, I did think the sun was as much a threat to the varnish as the damp was.
Some where on here JLH listed his approach to wood treatment, it was labour intensive, used different products and had many coats, but the finish was good.
Not sure if you were at Pateley Bridge when 2 Fry brought "Bad Ash" it has an excellent finish too, but I never asked him what he had used.
olderisbetter wrote:Underseal hides so much, i have a 58 traveller and when i do start looking into going through it i will start by thinking its all bad and then anything else is a bonus ... but Maude looks like your doing a great job.
copied and pasted from my thread on car rolling for this project so that I can keep a complete history here.
Thanks Sean, really appreciate your effort here, this will help me a lot for sure.
When you get it you will see you have a couple more options.
My brother and I order the Mini one as it has special mounts for rear parcel shelf and front subframe mounts, but ordered the Minor mounts as well at the same time.
Very sensible indeed. I talked to the guy yesterday and he explained that he would be supplying both the saloon and the traveller mounting options. I cant imagine how they differ at the moment as I don't have a saloon to compare. Perhaps its just the rear hole centres on the bumper mounts.
When you get it you will see how simple it would be to make your own front mount.
Fab, I canna wait ..........
On Custard someone cut the bumper mounts off and welded over the holes in the front panel, the rest of them remain, they should be welded firmly to the stronger curved part of the lower inner wing with a fillet to the tie plate and inner wing much further forward.
Mine are both there but the fillets are both broken at present and the welding to the inner wing on the nearside isn't great. A good strong wiggle of the bumper will result in contact of the mounting bar with the front panel. Obviously this isn't correct and will be sorted out whatever route I take.
I was thinking of the following options;
1) Welding another bar along the existing stump and then replacing the bumper iron as one of the last jobs (because I had not decided if I wanted a front bumper or not)
Personal preference will be your guide and as you say, there are other mounting options.
2) Strengthen the bumper iron first and weld a vertical square plate to it with four holes and then bolt another square plate to it with a stub for the bumper so that I can run with or without bumper without leaving any spikes.
That would have a very agricultural look, certainly functional, obviously would require the bumper fitting for the MOT.
3) Ignore the bumper irons and make a new front jig mount that locates on two squares of steel made to bolt to the engine turret holes.
This is a great suggestion and one I may explore "however" there is a big crack in the underseal in the area of the eyebolt on the nearside that I found yesterday. Because of this I'm fully expecting to find rot on the already patched chassis legs so ill very likely be replacing them. This makes life difficult for mounting on the engine turret holes.
When you see some of the other cars they have had on these, the weight of the Minor is not really an issue. So much so that as I am a little tight for room, and I am feeling too old for grovelling on the floor as much as I used to, I was going to remove the front uprights and get it on the jig and roll it over and then take the torsion bars and rear axle off while it is on the jig. Then of course it would need moving on the jig to rebalance it.
Brilliant idea, I think ill follow suit on this one, I'm now decided on the self loader/balancer anyway ill have a look today after whipping the engine out, if it looks remotely like the job I expect it to be then ill leave it until I can do it standing up with a cup of tea in one hand.
One thing I did notice with the jig, you need to bolt the disc with the holes on it for the locating pin yourself, that needs to be done when the car is at its correct height if you want it to sit straight. We got the car off the ground and it looked right so we bolted it up (you have to drill two holes yourself because they don't know where they need to be) and the car was level. We then found it was too high and we could not do a full rotation in his garage so it was lowered by extending the cross bar and splaying the legs. This then moves the location of the pin relative to the disc so instead of horizontal his now sits more like twenty to two.
Completely understand, this is invaluable information and will certainly be acted upon.
It is not an issue in the slightest but if you know about it first you can get it tidy from the start.
Also coerce some friends the first time you put it on, it is easy to think it is balanced as it sort of feels right side to side, but it generally isnt top to bottom so when you first roll it, it can get to a point where it either wants to come back or worse go right round quickly. But once set up in the right holes it goes round and you can easily hold it one handed while you put the pin in.
Ill geta couple of big blokes to help with the first roll but hopefully mounting it wont be an issue as ive now supplemented the order with the self loader/balancer. Have a look at it on his website. All you need do is put the shell on axle stands, lower the self loader to fit to the chosen mounting solution and then up up and away like a beautiful balloon.....
copied and pasted from my thread on the subject of car roller for this project.
With regard to leaving the front panel on if you really felt you wanted that extra strength, if you have anything to do in the engine bay then I would consider removing the panel and just making yourself an X with fresh steel at the end of the day it just adds a bit of triangulation between the inner wing and the front cross member, the other bolts are more for stopping the wings flapping and will be out anyway, I presume as you have the wings off. If the wings are off but the front panel on it will stick out a bit and possibly in the way. Sort of thing I tear my overall pockets on.
Point taken, if I weld in extra bracing or naughty word "gussets" for the bumper irons, I wont need the front panel. I could leave the naughty word "gussets" afterwards or remove as desired. I will be working in the engine bay for sure as ill take the opportunity to sort everything out and paint the entire shell.
Enjoy doing it.
I shall, thanks. Its gone from a minor repair to this, which is now a full rebuild but I don't regret poking one bit.
Once again, thanks for your time and effort mate, ill copy and paste this post into the my traveller Maude thread for the record.
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