Maurice - a very long term project

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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Sat Sep 17, 2016 9:53 am

Well no replies so had to splash out on a 20ltr Co2/Argon bottle from an SGS dealer.This has really changed my crappy welding in the wrong direction.
I'm getting black soot, I'm melting the torches shroud and the burn is wandering aroung! - what's going on?
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Panky » Sat Sep 17, 2016 10:19 am

Are you sure the gas is getting through and there's enough flow. Also check the inside of the shroud for pigeon s**t. If that's OK turn the power and feed down and tweak it up in stages.
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:12 am

Thank you for that - yes it was pigeon poo between thew nozzle and the tip - cheers
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Panky » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:42 am

Flippin pigeons get everywhere :D
It's a good idea to give the inside of the shroud a squirt with anti-spatter spray, helps a bit in stopping the droppings building up.
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:48 pm

Holes - I'm spending most of my time trying to fill in the holes I've burnt attempting to butt weld my floor pan.
The lowest setting on my SIP welder is just spitting and difficult to start - the next setting up with the wire feed wound down and I'm burning holes. I'm using 0.8mm wire - would using 0.6mm be easier to control?
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Panky » Sun Sep 18, 2016 8:00 pm

But welding is very difficult, much easier with an overlap. You could try holding a lump of metal covered with flattened copper tube against the underside of the joint as you tack it together, this will absorb some of the heat and wont stick to the weld. Try it on a practice piece first.
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:52 pm

I do have a strip of 1/4" thick piece of copper that I've used for just that but I'm at places where I can't reach to weld and hold the copper in place. Tacking is one thing but stitch welding and trying to get penetration is where I'm struggling.
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Custard » Sun Sep 18, 2016 10:32 pm

Re 0.6 wire,

In my experience the thinner wire gives more problems on some welders as it kinks and mis feeds more easily. I also check the lead to the gun to make sure it is straight or in a smooth curve to aid the wire feed.

If you can get a few scraps the same thickness practice butt welding them first to get the machine settings right, and try and increase your speed, if you can move the gun faster it helps.

When doing the real thing take time to get as comfortable as you can and do short runs of one or two inches. You can make a dotted line and then go back and fill in the gaps. That way it cools down a bit and hopefully wont distort.

If you are getting inconsistent spitting as previously mentioned is there enough gas, is it drafty (I have used old doors or any sheets of steel or wood to stop a breeze blowing my gas away) and have you cleaned the edges enough and got a good earth, ideally as close to where you are welding as you can.

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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Tue Sep 20, 2016 8:27 am

Thanks, I had another go last night and got on much better, Cheers.
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Mon Oct 17, 2016 10:06 pm

I've welded in one quarter floor panel and the boxing panel. I had to weld in a piece to extend the boxing extension panel so that it would meet the inner wheel arch, I then offered up the outer sill, it was 3/8" short at the front and as you can see in the picture it doesn't meet the inner wheel arch too.
I've measured up the rusty bits on the other side and it all matches up so I can only imagine that it's the wheel arch that is out, I'll wait now until I can get the wheel arch to see what's what.
Mean whille I thought I'd offer up a new chassis leg only to find that I had to modify it to fit around the Chassis Leg Top Extension (Bulkhead to Toe Board).
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IMG_20161017_162058.jpg
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IMG_20161017_162214.jpg
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welcome to the world of pattern parts, (there rubbish)
split the sill and add a piece to make it fit to rear wing if you do it right no one but you will know,a good place is in the jacking point area, ;)
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Wed Oct 19, 2016 1:00 pm

Bloody hell - if the British ones are this bad what are the Sri Lankan ones like?
Well I cant finish off the 1/4 panel area untill I can afford the new rear inner wing so I've welded up the new chassis leg - went ok i think - reasonabley parrallel and lines up with the mid cross member marks I made.
IMG_20161019_133038.jpg


So I'll fit the engine bay tie pate - I'm presuming one lines up the engine mount holes the best you can, well the lower flitch panel doesnt line up with the tie plate - it's 7/8ths out!
IMG_20161019_132903.jpg


Lots of head scratching and then I think I found the problem
IMG_20161019_132802.jpg

Circled in felt pen is a crease just to the right of the bump stop - one that's not on the other side of the car!
Something else I can't do until I fit a new flitch panel I suppose?
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looks like its had a bump at some time,

notice that the hole the shock arm goes through has been cut, is the inner wheel tub damaged and also check the bumper irons are not pushed back as you may have problems later on lining up the front,do a dummy run before you weld anything, it may save loads of grief,
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Re: Maurice - a very long term project

Postby Nourish » Wed Oct 19, 2016 3:32 pm

I cut that piece out to patch!
Yes it's had a knock as the bumper iron had torn through the inner wing. and the flitch panel had been straightened out.
I suppose I shall have to wait untill I turn the car back over to replace the flitch panel using the bonnet and perhaps a spirit level to align it.
I straightened out the other tie plate this morning - looks like someone had jacked the car up where the tie plate meets the panel that links up with the bulkhead (the one that has a big oval hole in it) and the inner wing, I would of thought that was a reasonably strong place to jack!
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sadly with time all panels go soft(rusty) best is chassis legs with a board spreader just in case.

as you are aware of damage at least you know whats happening, I would assembly it all using screws & nuts/bolts before I welded,
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